How to clean a rifle.

Is it unloaded?

Remove the bolt.

Put the rifle into a clamp, vice or trestle to hold it securely.

Remove the thread protector, muzzle brake, moderator.

As we have access to a quality bore scope I will often inspect the bore before cleaning. This will show how dirty the bore and chamber are. A great deal can be read into this of ammo quality, bore condition and copper fouling.

If the rifle is very dusty or dirty I remove it from the stock and inspect the trigger mechanism, magazine well and bedding.

All areas or the underside of the action are cleaned as required to remove dust, dirt and rust.

Use a correctly sized bore guide to safe guard the rifling lead from damage from the jag or cleaning rod. Bore guide £60, new barrel £1000 plus!

Use a jag and patch soaked with Bore Tec Eliminator, Wipe Out or similar

Swab slowly through from chamber to muzzle and remove the patch.

Pull the rod back carefully so as not to damage the crown of the rifling.

Repeat once or twice more.

If fouling is heavy, leave the rifle to soak for 10 to 30 mins with the muzzle lower than the chamber and something to catch any drips (not the carpet).

Repeat swabbing out once more. Watch the signs of colour on the patch as it comes out as this signifies whether it is carbon or copper that is being removed.

If fouling is still heavy use a nylon brush to add aeration to the cleaning process by pushing it through and back being careful of both lead and crown whilst locating it in the bore.

Personally I only use a bronze brush as a last resort due to the risk of barrel damage from the rod more than the brushing action.

Also be careful of not allowing the cleaning rod to bend during the forward stroke and impact or rub on the inside of the barrel.

Swab with clean patch of Eliminator, Wipe Out or similar. View signs on the patch.

Leave rifle to soak again if required and repeat above process or dry patch once or twice to remove the cleaning fluid.

Clean the muzzle threads and shoulder with carbon cleaner and a toothbrush.

Clean the muzzle and crown with a toothbrush and fine wire wool if needed - carefully!

Clean the chamber either with a chamber brush / swab and then patch it or with a chamber cleaning kit using wire wool.

Patch through bore to remove any residue left from chamber cleaning.

Clean the locking lugs with either a tooth brush, gun brush or action cleaning mop.

Clean the bolt race and top of magazine feed area with a brush and mops as needed.

Clean the rear of the action and top of the trigger mechanism with a brush or swabs. If dust is present an airline can be used to blow the dust out but not into the action.

If the rifle is out of the stock I will now replace it having lightly oiled the underparts that will rust if left dry, including the action screws and trigger guard / bottom metal.
Check visually for signs of abrasion within the stock where the action or barrel may be moving / impacting.
Pay particular attention to settling the rifle into the bedding (action back against recoil lug) and torquing the action screws to the correct torque setting.

Clean the outside of the bolt with a cloth or brush. Brush out the bolt face recess and check that the extractor claw is free to move and in good condition. Brush out debris.

Check the ejector plunger is free to move and in good condition. Clean as required.

Possibly strip the firing pin mechanism from the bolt and check condition. Clean the inside of the bolt with a swab all the way through to the firing pin hole.

Clean the firing pin, very lightly oil and reassemble the bolt.

Lightly grease the rear face of the bolt locking lugs, the cocking ramp on the rear of the bolt and the muzzle thread for the moderator.

Replace the bolt into the rifle and check mechanism works and the safety catch works correctly.

Clean the magazine - this may require stripping to remove built up fouling or it may just need a wipe and brush out.

If the rifle is to be shot within a short amount of time leave the bore as is. If it is to be stored push a lightly oiled patch through the bore and label the rifle as oiled in the barrel. The oil should then be removed before shooting when removing it from storage. Eliminator or Wipe Out can be used for short term protection.

Clean the scope outside - remove it from the rifle if needed to remove rust or detritus from the scope mounts or rail. If this is removed check the torque setting of the mounting screws to the action before replacement. On replacing the scope be sure that it is pushed forward within the rail slots to arrest any recoil forces. Pay attention to torque settings on replacement.

Clean the stock if needed, remove mud etc from the checkering and recoil pad.

Clean the scope lenses with compressed air or a lens brush to remove large abrasive particles and lens cleaning patches to remove smears / grease etc.

If lens covers are fitted check operation - if they are noisy to open and close I usually put a light amount of grease or vaseline on the leading edge of the ‘o’ring or seal. This reduces the ‘pop’ sound in operation.

Finally, check all screws on scope mounts and action for correct torque (not over tight though) and trigger and safety for operation and magazine for secure fit and release.

Check, clean and oil the sling swivels as required.

Rifles have feeling too you know! Remember, happy rifles are accurate rifles.

Andy Papworth